I do it just like Hesh said and cut with a backsaw just like Steve.
BTW, I've noticed that the older I get, the harder it becomes to get both the neck and butt aligned at the same time.
(maybe it's just me.)
Ron
| Official Luthiers Forum! http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/ |
|
| Cutting Sides to Length? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=10488 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | Brad Way [ Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I am getting close to starting my first. I am still unsure exactly when and how to cut the sides to length? What approach do most use? Thanks! |
|
| Author: | Jim Kirby [ Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I put a piece of masking tape on my body template or inside the form on one side, around the entire rim, and mark where the waist and the tail and heel seams will be. This tape is then transferred to the side that is getting trimmed. I leave ample extra on each end, as I've been unpleasantly surprised at least once by the waist shifting in the bender as the initial waist bend is made. Jim |
|
| Author: | SteveCourtright [ Sun Jan 21, 2007 2:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Cut after they are bent like Hesh says. I do exactly like Hesh says. I like using hand tools so I use a nice sharp crosscut backsaw to get the lengths close. I use a sharp low angle block plane on the side ends to mate them perfectly with each other. |
|
| Author: | JohnAbercrombie [ Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:47 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hesh's method is basically what I use as well- you can't go wrong following his advice. I also agree that the sides often shift in the bender-it's tough enough to keep the sides 'square' on the bending form without worrying about the length being too short. [QUOTE=Hesh1956] I start with the neck block first using the tail block to draw every thing together. [/QUOTE] BTW, if you are using the usual wedge or other insert at the tail, you can hide a gap if you make a mistake and find that everything didn't draw together as expected. At the neck end, binding, heel cap and neck will cover the sides joint in most cases. That said, tight joints on the centerline help in giving you a good reference line for alignment. John |
|
| Author: | Colin S [ Sun Jan 21, 2007 9:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I leave them about an inch long either end and cut after bending and setting in the mould for a day or two. That way you can ensure a close fit in the mould. OK, your going to cut them away at the but for the graft, and a the other end the join is goin to be covered by the neck, but it's satisfying to get a good joint to start with. Colin |
|
| Author: | old man [ Sun Jan 21, 2007 2:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I do it just like Hesh said and cut with a backsaw just like Steve. BTW, I've noticed that the older I get, the harder it becomes to get both the neck and butt aligned at the same time. (maybe it's just me.)
Ron |
|
| Author: | Andy Zimmerman [ Sun Jan 21, 2007 2:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I do mine just like Hesh |
|
| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Sun Jan 21, 2007 3:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Me does it like Terry, i also love to see which side is the profile on before i bend and please don't ask why!
|
|
| Author: | Pete Licis [ Mon Jan 22, 2007 4:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I just transfer the centerline of the outside mold to each side, take them over to the table saw, and using a crosscut sled, lop off the excess. For that operation, the neck or tail portion of the side rests flat on the crosscut sled - the opposite end (tail or neck) of the side is up in the air above the side you're trimming off. You're basically standing the side on it's neck and then tail. |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 5 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|